Mention Benidorm Old Town to most people and you'll get a blank stare. That's because the vast majority of visitors — the ones clutching their bucket cocktails on Levante Beach — never actually find it. And honestly? That suits those of us who have. After a decade living on the Costa Blanca, the Benidorm Old Town (El Casco Antiguo) remains the single most underrated square kilometre on this entire coastline.
Perched on the rocky headland that separates Levante and Poniente beaches, the old quarter is where Benidorm actually began — a small fishing village clinging to a cliff above the Mediterranean. The skyscrapers may have swallowed everything around it, but up here, white-washed walls, terracotta rooftops and a 16th-century church still set the tone.
How to Get to Benidorm Old Town
From Levante Beach, walk south along the promenade until you hit the headland. There's a steep staircase carved into the rock — locals call it La Cala side — or you can approach from the Poniente side via Calle Mayor. Either way, allow about 15 minutes on foot from the main beach strip. If you're driving, parking in Benidorm Old Town is notoriously tricky; your best bet is the underground car park at Plaza de la Hispanidad (about €1.50/hour) and walking up.
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The Mirador del Castillo: Best View in Benidorm, Full Stop
Before you explore anything else, walk straight to the Mirador del Castillo — the castle lookout point at the very tip of the headland. This is, without question, the best free viewpoint on the Costa Blanca. On a clear May morning (and May mornings here are almost always clear), you can see the full sweep of both Levante and Poniente beaches curling away on either side, the island of L'Illa de Benidorm floating offshore, and on the clearest days, the outline of Ibiza on the horizon.
I've brought dozens of first-time visitors here and the reaction is always the same: jaw-drop, then immediate reaching for the phone. Come at sunset if you can — the sky turns amber over Poniente and the skyscrapers actually look beautiful from this angle. Arrive early morning in May and you'll practically have it to yourself.
The original castle this viewpoint is named after was demolished in the 19th century; what remains is a small plaza, some cannons, and that extraordinary panorama.
Iglesia de San Jaime y Santa Ana
Just steps from the mirador stands the Iglesia de San Jaime y Santa Ana, Benidorm's parish church, which dates from the 16th century. The blue-tiled dome is visible from the beach below and has become one of the most photographed symbols of the town — though you'll only appreciate it fully once you're standing in front of it.
The church is usually open to visitors in the mornings (roughly 10:00–12:30) and before evening mass. Inside, it's simple and cool — a relief from the May heat — with a beautiful altarpiece and that particular quality of silence you only find in old Spanish churches. Even if you're not religious, it's worth five minutes.
The Streets: Getting Pleasantly Lost
The real pleasure of Benidorm Old Town is simply wandering. The streets are narrow, car-free and genuinely charming — Calle Sant Pere, Calle de la Virgen del Sufragio, the tiny alleys that suddenly open onto flower-draped balconies. In May, the bougainvillea is in full riot-purple bloom and the air smells of jasmine rather than sunscreen.
A few specific spots worth finding:
- Plaza del Tio Cuc: A tiny square named after a local character, ringed with traditional houses. Quieter than the main plaza and a favourite with locals.
- Calle Esperanza: One of the steepest, most photogenic streets in the old quarter — worth the climb.
- The old fish market area near Playa de la Cala: The small beach tucked beneath the headland, accessible via steps from the old town. It's rocky and shallow but utterly serene compared to the main beaches, popular with local families.
Where to Eat and Drink in Benidorm Old Town
The old town has several genuinely good restaurants and bars that have nothing to do with the all-inclusive belt.
La Cava Aragonesa (Calle Santo Domingo) is a tapas bar that's been there seemingly forever, with a decent selection of local wines from the Marina Alta and a back terrace that barely fits ten people. The gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns) are the real deal.
Restaurante El Rincón de Antonio serves traditional Valencian rice dishes — arròs amb fesols i naps (rice with beans and turnips) is the hyper-local dish that nobody outside the region has heard of, and it's extraordinary. Book ahead at weekends.
For a drink with a view, the small bar terrace at La Vieja Bodega on Calle Mayor faces toward the sea and serves cold Estrella Damm from midday. In May, the tables outside are perfect from about 5pm onwards.
Old Town vs The Strip: What's the Real Benidorm?
Here's my honest take after ten years: both are the real Benidorm, and that tension is actually what makes the place interesting. The skyscrapers and the nightlife strip are genuinely fun in their own way — I'd never pretend otherwise. But the old town is where you understand why people fell in love with this stretch of coast in the first place, long before the first high-rise broke ground in the 1960s.
If you're staying for a week, you should do both. Spend a morning in the old town, have a long lunch, take the afternoon at Poniente Beach (the quieter of the two main beaches — see our full Benidorm beaches guide), and end the evening on the strip. That's the Benidorm locals actually live.
Staying Close to the Old Town
One of the biggest advantages of booking a holiday rental in Benidorm rather than a hotel on the strip is flexibility. You can base yourself within walking distance of both the old town and the beach — and when you book directly through JV Properties, you save up to 18% compared to Airbnb or Booking.com. That's the difference between a nice dinner at El Rincón de Antonio and a mediocre buffet.
Our apartments in Benidorm range from studios perfect for couples to spacious family flats — browse available properties here and book direct for the best rate, every time.
When to Visit the Old Town
May is an ideal time. The crowds that descend in July and August haven't arrived yet, temperatures are perfect for walking (23–27°C most days), and the restaurant terraces have just reopened their outdoor seating. The church holds a small festival in late May in honour of Santa Ana that's worth catching if your dates align — low-key, local, and exactly the kind of thing that doesn't make it onto the tourist map.
Avoid Sunday afternoons if you want the restaurants open; many of the smaller places in the old town close Sunday evenings.
Final Thought
Benidorm Old Town won't change your life. But it might change your opinion of Benidorm — and that, for most people, is the bigger achievement. Go before lunch, take your time, and order the garlic prawns.