Most people arrive in Benidorm and head straight for the beach. And fair enough — Levante and Poniente are two of the finest stretches of sand in Europe. But if you never wander up the hill to the Benidorm Old Town (Casco Antiguo), you're missing the soul of the place entirely. After a decade living on the Costa Blanca, this compact hilltop neighbourhood is still one of my favourite spots anywhere on the coast — and in September, with the summer crowds thinning out and the light turning that gorgeous amber gold, it's absolutely magical.
This guide covers everything you need to know: what to see, where to eat, hidden corners worth finding, and why the Old Town is reason enough to skip the pool for an afternoon.
What Is the Casco Antiguo?
Benidorm's Old Town sits on a rocky promontory that juts out between Levante and Poniente beaches, crowned by the striking blue-domed Church of San Jaime and Santa Ana (Iglesia de San Jaime y Santa Ana). The neighbourhood is tiny — you can walk end to end in about ten minutes — but it packs in more character per square metre than anywhere else in Benidorm.
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Find rentals →Historically, this was the original fishing village, and if you look carefully past the souvenir shops and tapas bars, you can still see the bones of the old settlement: narrow whitewashed lanes, original stone archways, and the occasional cat sleeping in a doorway exactly where a cat has probably always slept.
Entry is free, it's walkable from both beaches, and parking in the area is genuinely terrible — which is actually ideal, because the whole point is to wander on foot.
Top Things to See in Benidorm Old Town
The Church of San Jaime and Santa Ana
This is the postcard shot of Benidorm — the one with the brilliant blue dome against the sky and the sea stretching out behind. The church dates back to the 18th century, though it's been rebuilt and restored over the years. It's usually open for visits outside of Mass times, and it's worth stepping inside to see the gilded altar. Outside, the small plaza in front is a lovely spot to sit with a coffee in the early morning before the day warms up.
The Mirador del Castillo (Castle Viewpoint)
Just behind the church, follow the signs to the Mirador del Castillo — the viewpoint on the highest point of the promontory. There's no actual castle left (it was demolished in the 19th century), but the views are extraordinary: both beaches laid out on either side, the Sierra Helada mountains to the north, the island of Benidorm (Illa de Benidorm) in the bay, and on a clear day, the outlines of Ibiza on the horizon. September is ideal for this — the haze of August has usually lifted and visibility is at its best. Budget ten minutes to get up here and an hour to leave.
Calle de la Cruz and the Old Lanes
The main pedestrian artery of the Old Town is Calle de la Cruz, lined with traditional whitewashed houses decorated with flowers and glazed tiles. Explore the smaller lanes that branch off it — Carrer Major, Carrer del Metge, the little passage near the old well — and you'll find corners that feel genuinely unchanged by the tourist boom. Keep your eyes up: many of the upper floors have beautiful old wooden balconies, original iron railings, and hand-painted ceramic house numbers.
The Old Fountain (Font Antiga)
Tucked into one of the side lanes near the church is the Font Antiga, the old village fountain. It's not spectacular by any means, but it's a lovely piece of original Benidorm that most visitors walk straight past. Worth a photo and a moment to reflect that people were drawing water here while the skyscrapers on Levante beach didn't exist in anyone's imagination yet.
Where to Eat in Benidorm Old Town
The Old Town has a genuinely good restaurant scene — a mix of traditional Spanish tapas bars and more contemporary spots, most of them catering to a more local or discerning crowd than the buffet restaurants down by the beach.
Tiffany's Restaurant on Avenida del Mediterráneo has been a Benidorm institution for decades and sits just at the edge of the Old Town. It's not cheap, but the terrace and the cooking are both excellent. For something more casual, La Cava Aragonesa on Calle Santo Domingo does a brilliant selection of montaditos and house wine — arrive early or expect to wait in September.
For breakfast, the small café-bar on the corner of Calle de la Cruz with the blue awning (the name changes periodically, as these things do) does proper Spanish tortilla and fresh-squeezed orange juice for under €4. That's my morning.
For tapas, look for places with handwritten menus in Spanish and a few locals at the bar — those are your best bets. The squid rings, local olives, and gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns) are universally excellent in this part of town.
Practical Tips for Visiting
When to go: September evenings are perfect. The temperature drops to a pleasant 22–24°C around sunset, the light is extraordinary, and there are noticeably fewer visitors than in July or August. Aim for around 6pm, walk up to the viewpoint for the sunset, then drift back down through the lanes for dinner.
How to get there: From Levante beach, it's a 10–15 minute walk uphill via Calle Gambo or the steps from the beachfront promenade. From Poniente, a similar walk via the seafront. Taxis are plentiful. There's very limited parking near the Old Town itself — the nearest useful car parks are on Avenida de la Comunitat Valenciana.
What to wear: Comfortable shoes. The lanes are cobbled and uneven. Sandals are fine, stilettos are not.
Accessibility: The Old Town is hilly and has steps — it's not fully accessible for wheelchair users, though the main plaza around the church is reachable via a gentle slope from the Levante side.
Stay Close to the Old Town
Exploring the Casco Antiguo is infinitely more enjoyable when you're based nearby. A holiday rental in Benidorm in or around the Old Town puts you within walking distance of both beaches, the viewpoints, and the best tapas bars — without the chaos of the main hotel strip. Our available Benidorm apartments include properties just minutes from the Casco Antiguo, and booking direct with JV Properties saves you up to 18% compared to platforms like Airbnb. No platform fees, no price inflation — just the real rate, direct.
September is genuinely one of the best months to explore Benidorm like this: unhurried, warm, and just local enough to feel like you're in on a secret. The Old Town will still be there when the skyscrapers are long forgotten. Go see it.




